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I agree the blade size is the measurement. I’ve seen the stock truck listed as 75mm and 78mm. Smoothing and handwork the aluminum I think might make a very small amount of improvement and efficiency, but I think in the end, the maximum flow has to be determined by your blade size.

Glad it helped

I did not know at the time you can actually buy brass set screws; are way easier to drill than the steel one I got at tractor supply. 👍😉

Good to know

A lot of my information back then I was getting straight from sloppy mechanics Matt Happel.

@@HeadFlowInc oh I understand brother I use the round heat sink coils I find that they tend to last longer and they provide a really good spark too. But nice car by the way!

SBE 5.3, ported 241 heads, Elgin 1838p cam and a VS 88/83 T4 turbo. 4l80e PTC converter and a 8.5” 10 bolt w/ 3.42 gears hung by an aftermarket 4 link setup coilovers

Yes you are fine, just make sure it’s 90% of the valve size and you stay below the sealing angle on the seats. I tend to use 86-87% on all my exhaust seats; it it is a high heat application lean more towards the 86% 👍

​@@HeadFlowIncthank you

Works perfectly no issues ever, even the Internet experts figured out it works. 😉😎

My 4.8 has seen 7300 rpm’s several times all SBE with a 216/230 HR cam and single .600” springs. 🧐

That’s really interesting, most of the Internet would say that true LS seven lifters require longer push rods, not short. There could’ve been stem variance when they did the valve job away from stock.?

@@HeadFlowIncI didn’t have any head work done when I built the motor. I basically followed Richard holders guidelines and took it to zero lash. 1.1/8 turn and I was at 22ftlbs. Motor runs awesome I think I need to get it re tuned

It’s definitely recommended to align the pump gears with shims before tightening the housing but very few people actually do it. I did the feeler gauge method on my 4.8 turbo build. 👍

We never had any issues with valvetrain noise. 🤔🤔🤔

All I know is this works and ever one who uses the 470 ohm resistor says it works. What ever it does I’m glad I found out. 👍

@HeadFlowInc are you saying the 470 ohms or the set voltage and if voltage what do you recommend

No there shouldn’t be any issues with the head bolt holes. There could be an issue with warped heads or the head gasket is damaged or not sealing.

I stopped using those cone filters on the VB lines. 👍

It depends on your application, I now know not to trust the entry level stainless steel valves with boost after seeing Ryan’s Ranger killed a set. I guess I’ve never worried about the stem lengths, most manufacturers only offer a few lengths for the LS heads. Try to get a stem length equal to or slightly longer than the factory length so you can shim to achieve the proper install height for the valve springs. Most valves only vary maybe .015”-.020” between the different manufacturers. I highly recommend setting your lifter preload by verifying the needed pushrod length. Manufacturing variances in cam base circle and pushrod cup depth in the lifters can change pushrod length. I have a video on my channel on setting pushrod length using the adjustable pushrod tool. JD

@@HeadFlowInc thanks for your input. I'm definitely curious about the stainless situation as that was my plan with the next set of 862s on a turbo 5.3 that I'll be doing after this NA 6.0 build. But yes I just literally dug out my stock valves and they are reading 4.869 intake and 4.920 ex. My old exhaust values are pitted kind of bad in my opinion and was looking to step up to an 2.00 intake valve with a valve job. Didn't want to buy pushrods yet cause I'm not sure if my machine guy is gonna want to surface them in addition to running a .041 head gasket. And yes I watched your vid on finding pushrod length. I can't wait to send the heads off to the machine shop so I can finish porting and chamber mods. Again thank you for your input and vids. They have helped and encouraged me quite a bit

I’m sure we bought them at an automotive parts store. But if you want nicer chrome or anodized aluminum pipe plugs you can order them online.

I haven’t put it on real scales yet to get the front/rear bias. I removed all the interior except the dash, door panels and factory rubber mat on the floor. W/interior it weighed 3500# with driver 240#; after weight loss and turbo install etc I’m hoping to see +- 3200# with driver.

I Taylor the cam to the vehicle, are you automatic/Stick and what rear gears? I don’t over cam engines, I set them up to make the most average HP/TQ because it makes them run faster.

@@HeadFlowInc 97 camaro Z28 6 speed 342 gears I love the rpm range 2500-to about 62 6300 rpm

@@HeadFlowInc Thats why you are perfect person to ask everybody says 108 lsa but respond 0 to more air and just how every thing works together then they run out of power but insist on standing on it its like a freind tryed to race me with 300 horse turbo to make it even and not blow him away I kept it under 2500 rpm so it would be good race lol He made me Burst his bubble later

Plus those tires were really old, they had great tread but basically rotten.

I haven’t tried straight e85 yet. The only part of the fuel system not e85 rated was the 2” hose between the pump and hangar assembly. It should be safe for e85 now but it’s time to upgrade the lines again. JD

Which heads do you want numbers on? I have flow data available on several of my ports including the Max effort 1.89”/1.55” 862’s with a 208cc port. I’m open to compare anytime.

I use Clark Riddle Flowbench testing for my flow data. Flow bench data and proof through both track testing and chassis dyno’s. Yes I know what I’m doing. 👍

Note: This torque method is only ok with used pre- stretched bolts; I’m not sure I mentioned it in the video.

@HeadFlowInc yes you did mention that i caught that asap and yes im using my old bolts thanks again

I bet it has to be close, as long as it’s under 10 gram difference it should be fine.

Not factual wives tail. You only gain/loss +- 4% power/torque for a FULL number of compression; ie 9.0-1 to 10.0-1 I guarantee you would never see the difference in power from cutting the edges of the valves from lost compression, that is simply false. But picking up 3-5 cfm will show a change. JD

The DOD/AFM requires the Melling 10355 pump. But only seeing 5# if look at my cam bearings. JD

@@HeadFlowInc Thanks for the response. That have been my suspicion. Engine will come out soon...

Good idea Thanks!

We’ve been running the factory 192° thermostat no problems. 👍

Katech doesn’t have very good flow numbers compared to many other options.

Good question, I wish I knew 100%! I should drop a piece in gas and see what happens. Thanks for the support! 👍

Dang heart issues, I think we’ve got it figured out with meds and diet. We had a short move only 1 block away, but moving always sucks. 😇 Thanks for the support!!! 👍

Baby steps 👍

I tried testing everything I could think of. Voltage, ohms, continuity eventually swapped fuel pumps. I found a melted pin in the hangar connector, bypassed it still no pump. I started testing w/ auxiliary power/ground finally figured it out. The new 535lph pump is making 70-75 psi causing the tune to be pretty rich but it’s running again! 👍👍

50-53# is what I’ve found and compared to others results found on the Internet and RUclips